Meet Yumnah Khan, a fashion design graduate of Birmingham City Univeristy. Yumnah’s final collection is a menswear offering that explores the duality of nature and industrialism, called All Traces of Man. Blending traditional tailoring with sportswear, Yumnah’s collection features knitwear, prints and corrugated fabrics.
“Nature and Industrialism, you could say don't always meet eye to eye, but through my research I've come to the conclusion that when they are put together they create beautiful things, such as those abandoned buildings you'd see while looking out of the train window,” says Yumnah. Read more about her work below.
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
During my time at university, I have learnt to have more faith in myself and my work. Coming from a South Asian background, I was always expected to take the conventional route of an academic degree, but I knew from a young age that art and design was my calling. Breaking this news to a traditional household was not easy, as not many people thought that I could create an honest career out of fashion design. This pushed me to work harder to not only prove people wrong but to also become a better designer. University really helped me to recognise my own talents and improve my skills as a creative while instilling more confidence in me to hone my creativity.
Tell us about your current projects and work, what have you been working on?
My graduate collection 'All Traces Of Man' explores the definitive relationship between industrialism and nature. Creating an environment where natural and industrial elements are appreciated. The main focus of this collection is to bring together two opposite elements to show being different does not mean you cannot be appreciated.This A/W 20 collection displays a mixture of traditional menswear tailoring alongside elements of sportswear, to coincide with the flexibility of nature. The key aspects of the collection are print, knitwear and corrugated fabric, which run throughout the garments. I'm currently working on teaching myself digital pattern making, as I have always had an interest and enjoyed pattern cutting. I also want to take this time to really hone my personal style as a designer and strengthen my illustrative skills.
What form does your work take?
This project takes the form of a graduate portfolio, with a conceptual look book and three final outfits that were showcased at the BCU Preview show. My three final looks involve traditional menswear with sportswear details, and they include the manipulation of fabric to create corrugation, inspired by corrugated metal. This is created by using fabric starch and moulding the fabric on to corrugated plastic to hold the shape. I also wanted to bring in my interests of knitwear into my collection, which involves recreating ribbed style knitwear with crochet techniques for jumpers and a wrap.
How have you evolved as a young creative while studying / working?
As a young creative, I have never had the confidence to put myself out there, but I pushed myself to apply for internships, and during my time at my internship I learned a lot of important skills. Working with Megan Crook, helped me to understand how much hard work and resilience is put into creating a brand, and I was able to use my skills learnt during my studies to help move the brand forward.
I think this gave me more confidence, as I felt a part of a community, and I gained more knowledge on the fashion industry, making me feel more prepared for post-graduation. I was also lucky enough to be recognised for creative portfolio by staff at BCU that put me forward for the Screenskills Anne Tyrell student design award, where I received the highly commended award. This made me realise that my work was better than what I saw it as, and this achievement gave me that confidence boost to put myself out there.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
The theme behind my project is bringing together two different aspects of life and creating a space where they can be accepted. Nature and Industrialism, you could say don't always meet eye to eye, but through my research I've come to the conclusion that when they are put together they create beautiful things, such as those abandoned buildings you'd see while looking out of the train window.
Or those monumental places and buildings where nature has come back to take what's hers. To me it showcases that being different doesn't make you bad, or wrong, but it makes you more interesting. Thus, with the current climate, I think my project highlights a level of diversity, yes it's speaking of nature and industrial, but you can take those two out and substitute it for ethnicity, religion, sexuality and you will still see that being accepted and appreciated for being different is what we currently need.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
An aspect of the fashion industry that I am extremely passionate about is inclusivity. I want to be a part of a change where we are able to see more POC working within all areas of the industry. Growing up, I've not seen many POC working in fashion, which is where my disbelief in myself came from, because I didn't think that someone like me would be able to achieve and work in this industry. Even when applying for internships, or working I found that I didn't see many South Asian's working at the places I was interviewed at. This is an obvious issue that I want to be a part of in resolving and creating a more inclusive industry where a younger version of me would know she could be a part of it, without doubting herself for her heritage.
What is your plan for the future?
After completing my degree, I want to carry on improving the skills I've learnt and push myself to try new things like 3D design, which I have been wanting to learn to recreate my graduate collection in a virtual world. I am also looking to find a job within menswear design and hope to work my way up into the luxury design industry. At a certain point in my life, I would love to have my own brand, but for now I want to work and visit places and learn and absorb as much knowledge to help me succeed within the industry.