Meet Juliette Wells Gray, Sportswear and Leisurewear Award Winner at GFW22. She graduated from Kingston School of Art with a Fashion BA (Hons).
How do you feel about winning a GFW22 award?
Winning the Sportswear and Leisurewear Award at GFW is a huge achievement for me. It has been an amazing way to end my degree as well as being given the opportunity to present my work to the judges at Gymshark.
What was the inspiration starting point for your award-winning FMP?
Initially, my inspiration for my final collection started around the idea of form and function whilst looking at the body in motion. In particular, I was inspired by the book 鈥楨volution in Action鈥� by Jean-Baptiste De Panafieu and Patrick Gries. From looking at the natural form of skeletons in motion, the importance of functional development and movement was really emphasised. As well as this, my collection was highly influenced by my upcoming trip to Everest Base Camp. My collection was developed to incorporate natural references of colour and shape whilst being functional and versatile enough to be worn to Base Camp.
What skills did you learn and develop during the production of your FMP?
Throughout my final collection, I learned the importance of appropriate material and trim choices as well as constructing garments to a high standard. This is something I enjoyed whilst spending a lot of time in the workshops sewing samples and trying different techniques. I also experimented with pockets, fastenings and technical fabrics to develop my designs through 3D exploration. Developing this skill set has really allowed me to explore appropriate fabrics and create highly refined garments and accessories to reflect my research.
What were some challenges that you faced in producing your FMP and how did you overcome these?
Whilst specialising in sportswear, I faced the challenge of sourcing and using technical materials to correspond with my research. Although the aesthetic of fabric is important, I wanted to explore the technical and functional properties which perform in sportswear garments. An example of this is Merino Wool which provides naturally technical properties such as being breathable, odour resistant and moisture wicking. In response to this, I developed a base layer series that can adjust to the body in multiple environments. When using these materials, I ran into a few challenges which involved construction, durability and appropriate function. To overcome this, I experimented with a large range of materials and different techniques.
Are there any messages or major themes in your FMP that you want people to take away? If so, how did you choose to communicate them?
I wanted to communicate the idea of functional design with an emphasis on detail. Using trims, fine details and accessories to bring my collection together has been a focus point. To achieve this, I kept other elements such as my photoshoot simple and understated to keep the focus on the collection.
What is an aspect of the fashion industry that you want to help improve or have a positive impact on?
With a keen interest in 3D form, I would like to further explore the use of material development in the sportswear industry. With technical fabrics often being man-made and destructive, I believe there are more sustainable and interesting alternatives available. With technology increasingly being at the forefront of design and with sustainability in mind, it is something I would want to be a part of. I believe the future of sportswear to be new and exciting.
What form does your FMP take? Is it a collection of clothing, book, presentation, etc? If relevant, how did you source the materials for the project?
My final collection consists of 6 looks, accessories and base layer series as well as a lookbook and portfolio. I sourced many materials throughout the year, often buying fabrics to sample with before buying larger quantities. I found sampling in final fabric to be an effective way to explore appropriate material choices. For my accessories, I used fabric offcuts from my garments as well as deadstock and remnant technical material.
What are your plans for the near future (further study/ internship/ work?) now that you've finished your BA?
As a graduate, I am looking to gain experience within the sportswear industry. I am motivated to further my design development, broaden my skill set and work in an industry environment. As well as this, I am planning on continuing my own work in relation to Base Camp and developing this further with some ideas in mind.