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Meet Kim Chau, a fashion textiles graduate from Middlesex University. Kim’s graduate collection is called Androgynous Army, and is inspired by WWI and exhibitions at the Imperial War Museum in London.

Although it’s a menswear collection, Kim wants the collection to appeal to anyone through its pastel colour palette and textiles which digitally weave florals and military camouflage. Read more about Kim and her work below!

What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?

The university has given me the opportunity to explore things that I never expected. It has developed my skills and knowledge of a fashion textiles designer. The tutors on my course have also given me ways to adapt new methods of working since the lockdown which I have continued to develop amazing things as well as develop my adobe skills.

Tell us about your current projects and work, what have you been working on?

My BA graduate collection focuses on the army, particularly military wear/uniforms and exploring themes of masculinity and femininity. I have taken inspiration from World War I from looking at the Imperial War Museum, as well as using references The Invisible Man exhibition. My colour palette is heavily influenced by military medals and contrasting them to more feminine pastels and neutrals. I have developed digitally woven textiles which meld florals and military camouflage and sit alongside hand woven silks transformed into frills alongside military detailing.

What form does your work take?

My collection is garment based with technical pattern cutting and structured weaves which I hope to finish after the lockdown so I can see my collection come to life.

How have you evolved as a young creative while studying / working?

I believe I have evolved as a young creative while working. Looking back to the beginning or first year to now I have developed lots of new skills from working in the studios with different designers as well as gaining experience of working backstage at London Fashion Week. I can now take these skills and apply them to my own practise.

What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?

I call my collection Androgynous Army, which explore themes of masculinity and femininity. Even though it is a menswear collection I want the collection to appeal to all genders. The thoughts for my collection is that why should our clothes determine our gender roles? I want my collection to be free from this and let people express who they are and not having this idea of this is masculine or this is feminine. My collection challenges these gender roles and shows that it doesn't matter which gender we are, we are all the same in many ways.

What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?

I believe that there should be more gender neutral designers because not only it will help us to grow in the fashion industry it will help the world too. As there is still people who discriminate others on their gender, I feel like it will also help others who are struggling to find who they are, which gives them a platform to express themselves.

What is your plan for the future?

My plan for the future is to work in a foreign country or in London as a studio assistant and also working as a freelance fashion textiles weave designer. One day, I hope to have my own brand of gender neutral clothing line were I will be making hand woven garments which will be non-commercial.